Bangaram Island

When the pilot announced that we were making our final approach, we looked down through the thin veil of clouds and scaned the surface of the Indian Ocean: nothing in sight. Then, as the plane tilted to the right,we spotted a pale halo on the blue horizon. Was this our final destination? It seemed as if we had travelled half-way around the world to find a very tiny jewel. Little did we know that it would bring us big thrills and huge satisfactions.

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TRAVEL TIPS

After the landing, we went through a few formalities and miraculously found ourselves standing on the beach, with a dozen of other guests and all the baggages, waiting to board the "Rocket", our final carrier. The boat's sole purpose is to take visitors to Bangaram, about 8 km to the north. The 90 minute ride gave us time to enjoy a few relaxing moments as we watched schools of flying fish burst out of the turquoise water, turtles glide along the boat and palm trees wave from the beach. When we reached our destination, the sun was genlty bowing over the sea and a small barge dropped us on the shore of a perfect little paradise: barefoot in the sand, an open coconut in our hands, we savoured the refreshing water while being greeted by our hosts, Manpreet and Thyagin Menon. Namaskaram! Welcome!

We immediately sensed that we were about to live an unforgettable experience. Even though a dark and misty curtain was beginning to fall on the island, the richness of the marine environment was still omnipresent: hundreds of crabs buried into their holes as we walked on the beach toward our hut and the waves were glowing with bioluminescent life. In that light, morning and the perspective of our first dive seemed much too far away...

Underwater
Sunrise found us sitting in front of the dive shop, ready to take the plunge. Our first destination, Shallow Point, was a sumptuous coral garden spreading on the outer slope of the barrier reef at a depth of about 20 m. The pristine and diversified marine life we encountered owes much to the remoteness of the tiny atoll. Stretching barely 10 degrees north of the equator, Bangaram is home to an abundant array of plant and animal species, similar to that found in the Maldives which spread approximately 450 km to the south. However, unlike most better known islands of the Indian ocean, Bangaram is visited by a maximum of about 1500 tourists annually. The coral is thus exceptionnaly healthy. Furthermore, both the Casino Group and the managers of the Bangaram Island Resort share a keen desire to protect the environment they are promoting. Due to its small size and isolation from the mainland, Bangaram's fate relies almost entirely on the environmental consciousness of its keepers and visitors. Everyone that sets foot on the island is evidently urged to respect the corals and surrounding marine life while snorkeling, diving and beach combing.

Around the atoll
We rapidly discovered that, aside from joining a dive expedition, another great way to explore the rich waters was to take a sea kayak and venture freely into the lagoon. Sumptuous coral heads come up to the surface every few meters, multiplying the opportunities for snorkeling. We took advantage of this generous invitation almost every afternoon and paddled from one enchanting site to another. Our favourite spots were home to a variety of critters: sea cucumbers and sea stars of all sizes, families of lionfish, thousands of briliantly coloured Christmas tree worms, a few green moray eels and several patrols of butterfly fish, the emblem of the Lakshadweep. One day, we pushed our exploration further and visited the other islets that fringe the Bangaram atoll. Snorkelling between the two small Paralli islands was great. We cruised over immense fields of Acropora corals, sprinkled with cowries and other large shells. On land, the powdery beaches were teeming with hermit crabs, including large red ones, some of them the size of a fist. The abundance of Green, Hawksbill and Leatherback turtles around these islands was attested by the presence of carapaces, skulls and bones half burried in the sand beneath the bushes. Back on Bangaram, we were told that turtles often lay their eggs just in front of the resort and that hatchlings once came up the beach toward the dining hut. They had to shut down the lights to convince the little fellows to return to the sea. The marine kingdom of Bangaram is unique and so well preserved that it is almost like a fantasy come true. And to top it all, the island offers a number of terrestrial pleasures.

The local food, which included Tandoory and Keralan cuisine, barbecues on the beach and succulent fruits, was certainly one of them. Since we were on Bangaram during the harvest season, we tasted our share of sweet coconuts. Several groups of locals from nearby islands came to collect the precious fruits. Known as thengia in the local language, they are destined to the copra and coir industries. Watching the workers climb the tall trees, gather piles of coconuts and carry them to their boats was quite fascinating. Fishermen were also roaming around Bangaram's generous shores. They were usually out to catch the small baifish that allow them to go tuna fishing outside the lagoon.

Eventually, the time came to say goodbye: Veendum kanam! There we were, sipping one last coconut, looking at the immaculate beach and turquoise lagoon for the last time before boarding the boat that would take us a little closer to home. But we would certainly remember this treasure island, its friendly hosts and its fabulous gatherings of turtles, morays, clams, clownfish, rays, sharks, cones, cowries and hermit crabs. We knew we would not forget any of them. And we were right.


The Bangaram experience

Many airlines, including Air India, serve Delhi and Mumbai from major European, Asian and American cities. Air India also ensures domestic flights to Thiruvananthapuram. Even though the best time to visit Bangaram is probably between November and May, when the risk of heavy rainfall is reduced, the remainder of the year may offer very nice weather conditions and a more quiet stay. Trips to Bangaram are organized by the Casino Group of Hotels, including the stopover in Kochi, the permit formalities, the flight to Agatti, the transfer to Bangaram by boat, or helicopter, and the stay at the Bangaram Island Resort. Boat trips, deep sea fishing and island excursions are offered at extra costs. There are no commodities (store, restaurant, etc.) outside the resort. The Poseidon Neptune Diving Centre operates on Bangaram. Lessons leading to PADI certification and multiple dive packages are offered. The local currency is the Indian rupee (INR India rupees). The electric current is 240 Volts, with rounded plugs. The time difference between Montreal, eastern standard time, and Kochi is 12h. All enquiries to: Bangaram Island Resort, C/o Casino Hotel, Willington Island, Kochi-682 003, India, Tel. 91-484-668221/668421, Fax 91-484-668001.