We
have just crossed over the 50th northern parallel. Like always, we are
struck by the relatively sudden change of scenery. The lush boreal forest
has now disappeared to be replaced by peat bogs, clumps of stunted trees
and cranberry bushes. A few wrinkled crests of the Canadian Shield rise
above this mix of tundra and Artic vegetation. Driving into
Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan, a quiet Amerindian village, we finally spot the
first islands of the Mingan archipelago, snuggled between the barren land
and the majestic Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is hard to believe that we are
still in the eastern Canadian province of Quebec.
We have been here before, and for good reasons. If humans often feel a bit
disoriented by the strangeness of the Mingan landscape, marine mammals,
birds and invertebrates seem quite at ease. Each spring, after the winter
fast, processions of humpback, finback, blue and minke whales invade the
Gulf to take advantage of its generous fill of plankton. While the giants
feast in the open sea, entire gardens of colourful invertebrates bloom
near the island shores.
Gazing at them through the thick mist of this early morning, the rugged
and wind-swept islands look somewhat timeless. It is true that the origins
of the archipelago are virtually lost in time. The shore of almost every
island is guarded by strange limestone monoliths carved by the erosion of
500 million years old sediment. The odd "flower pots" are sprinkled with
abundant marine fossils. Living organisms also thrive in the area, both on
land and in the sea. The string of over 900 islands and islets, stretched
on more than 100 km, has been declared a national park reserve in 1984 to
protect the unique wildlife it harbours.
The peculiar geology, rare plants, migrating birds and underwater life of
Mingan offer a fascinating array of subjects to nature photographers.
Perhaps the most photogenic features of Mingan are the limestone monoliths.
They come in several sizes and shapes.
Many visitors are also
interested in the botanical features of Mingan: they take advantage of the
several hiking trails that spread on the islands, offering countless
opportunities to observe the artic-alpine plants, lichens and natural
bonsais blending together to form the maritime tundra. The islands also
harbour dwarf evergreen trees, crawling lichens and blueberry bushes.
Birds are another big attraction, especially around l'île aux Perroquets (Parrots
Island), named after the endearing large-beaked Atlantic puffins that nest
there throughout summer. They certainly are a fitting emblem for the
Mingan Archipelago: odd-looking, proud and very deserving of our respect.
For us, the marine
world is the most fascinating. Walking amongst the monoliths at low tide,
we are always impressed by the diversity of marine life which thrives in
the cold St. Lawrence waters. Here, a clump of brown algae stretches at
the surface of the water, there, a periwinkle wiggles its way around a
blue mussel. Sometimes, jellyfish, algae and shellfish get washed up on a
stretch of sandy beach. After a few hours of this tantalising incursion,
we are always eager to schedule a deeper inspection. Diving in Mingan has
no parallel: each expedition is challenging, but well worth it.
Because of the huge productivity of the Gulf, most of the time, we can
barely see below the first few meters of its troubled surface. Even in
summer, the water temperature remains around 0-1 °C below 10 m and the
tides are quite marked around here, giving birth to treacherous currents.
Bringing our gear on the shore is often a arduous task, as the quiet and
hidden coves that offer the best diving spots are often not readily
accessible. Our best alternative is usually to reach a site by speedboat.
A good diving destination is l'île du Havre (Haven island), just in front
of Havre-Saint-Pierre. The fury of the Gulf of St. Lawrence is tempered in
the narrow passage between the mainland and the island: currents are
generally not too heavy. Other sites we enjoy exploring include l'île à
Bouleaux du Large (Offshore Birch Tree Island) and l'île Nue (Naked
Island).
Dreaming
of Mingan?
The Mingan Archipelago
stretches off the villages of Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan, Mingan and
Havre-Saint-Pierre along highway 138, about 1000 from Quebec City.
The currency is
the Canadian dollar (CAD).
There are hotels and
motels in Havre-Saint-Pierre.
Water buses and taxis as
well as several tour boats can take you to the different islands.
Camping sites are
available on some islands. For inquiries and reservation: (418)
538-3285.
Diving in the
archipelago is a blooming attraction. Visitors interested in exploring
the underwater kingdom need to bring their own equipment.
For more information on
the park and the archipelago: Parcs Canada, District de Mingan, 1303,
rue de la Digue, C.P. 1180, Havre-Saint-Pierre (Québec) G0G 1P0, Tel.
(418) 538-3331, Fax (418) 538-3595.
