Home to
legendary head hunters, feared throughout the western Pacific until the
middle of this century, the 992 islands of the Solomon archipelago are
scattered slightly under the equator, north-east of Australia. Imagine 3
days of travelling, including some 35 hours of flight: enough to make you
a little numb. But the aerial view of the Solomons offers such immense
promises that it renews your energy and eagerness. Through the clouds, you
can see the majestic capes of rainforest covering almost all available
pieces of silt and limestone, including the 6 main islands, some 30
smaller ones and numerous tiny islets. The bright shades of green softly
blend with the shimmering sea where the mangrove swamps crawl away from
the land.
Only a few atolls and
coralline crests seem to have been forgotten by Mother Nature during the
distribution of these superb leaf covers, and instead display sparkling
auras of crushed coral. But the most breathtaking sight remains that of
the sumptuous lagoons drawing crescents of changing blue along the powdery
shores: translucent turquoise over the sand, slightly tinted by the
corals, and becoming deep indigo as the depth increases. And to imagine
that these moving colours hide even brighter sceneries, crawling with
luxuriant marine life!
Like all foreign visitors,
we landed at the international airport, approximately 20 km west of the
capital, Honiara (red splat on the map), on the island of Guadalcanal. We
spent almost a year based in Aruligo, a village located east of Honiara.
Because of our work, we spent a lot of time near Gizo, in the Western
Province, and also stayed in a local community on the island of New
Georgia, just in front of the volcanic island
of
Kolombangara.
Our main expeditions
were to the marine reserve of Arnavon (between Choiseul and Malaita),
Marau Sound (western Guadalcanal) and the Ngellas (with Bilikiki Cruises).